HAPPY NEW YEAR!

I don't know if this is the year of the snake in China, but I guess it is here on my blog! Here is an early copy of the snake pattern.

I say early because this pattern is untested from this typing. I tested the handwritten version I typed this from. I know a few of you are in a hurry for this pattern, so I am going to go ahead and post it here despite having only done a very cursory proof-reading. For those who prefer to wait, I will post a more carefully tested and proof-read version on my pattern page when I can.

Left to right: Green snakes are made with Schachenmayr Nomotta Regia 4 Line Steps (this would use the finger weight pattern, not yet posted).

Rainbow colored snake in the back center is from Patons Astra's paintbox varigated. This is a DK weight yarn.

The multicolored center front snake is from Cascade Yarns Cherub collection Kaleidoscope D.K

The pink with purple and yellow striped snake on the left is made with Caron Simply soft worsted weight. I tend to like the DK or sock weights better, personally, as the worsted weight yarns get a little stiff when knit tight enough to keep their beans in.

Things I discovered while knitting the snakes:

If the gauge is too stiff or the snake overstuffed, the snakes won't curl up or slither well.

If the gauge is too loose, the snakes won't hold their beans!

I like the idea of being able to use up left over yarns in a variety of weights. I have included instructions for DK, and worsted weight at this time. Finger/sock yarn weight pattern will follow later.

I don't offer an exact gauge. Knit a little bit and see if you think it's tight enough to keep the stuffing in. If you knit this pattern and find errors, I would appreciate knowing about them.

I know there is a more succinct way to write out this pattern, but for the sake of those who are in a hurry for this pattern, I'll post it now in it's less polished form.

SNAKE PATTERN FOR DK WEIGHT YARN:

MATERIALS:
Needles: Set of size 2 US double points
Darning needle
Stitch marker
Crochet hook size 1 or close (optional)
Stuffing for Snakes*
*I used pinto beans to stuff my snakes. This gives the snakes a bit of weight and helps them curl and slither in a way polystuffing doesn't. I would not recommend pinto beans or similar for children who are young enough for choking hazards to be a concern.

Abbreviations:
K knit
Kf&b Increase by knitting through front and back in same stitch. http://knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/increase.php
M1 Increase 1 stitch by picking up the yarn between stitches and knitting into it. There are several version of the M1 increas. I use the M1F (or make one front) shown here: http://knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/increase.php
K2tog Knit 2 stitches together for a decrease. http://knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/decrease.php

Cast on 3 stitches
Knitting rows 1-6 as an i-cord
Row 1 K3
Row 2 K1, K1f&b, K1
Row 3 K4
Row 4 K1, K1f&b, K1, K1f&b
Row 5-6 K6

Divide onto 3 needles, with 2 stitches on each needle. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of each row.

Row 7 K1, M1, K5 (7 stitches)
Row 8-9 K7
Row 10 K4, M1, K3 (8)
Row 11-12 K8
Row 13 K7, M1, K1 (9) *at this point you should have 3 stitches on each needle
Row 14-23 K9 (10 rows)
Row 24 K2, M1, K7 (10)
Row 25-27 K10
Row 28 K6, M1, K4 (11)
Row 29-31 K11
Row 32 K10, M1, K1 (12) *at this point you should have 4 stitches on each needle. A 4th needle can be introduced at this time with 3 stitches on each needle if you prefer.
Row 33-47 K12 (15 Rows)
Row 48 K2, M1, K10 (13)
Row 49-52 K13 (4 rows)
Row 53 K6, M1, K7 (14)
Row 54-57 K14 (4 rows)
Row 58 K10, M1, K4 (15)
Row 59-62 K15 (4 rows)
Row 63 K14, M1, K1 (16) If you did not introduce a 4th needle in row 32, you may wish to do so at this time, placing 4 stitches on each needle.
Row 64-73 K16 (10 rows)
Row 74 K4, M1, K12 (17)
Row 75-78 K17 (4 rows)
Row 79 K9, M1, K8 (18)
Row 80-83 K18 (4 rows)
Row 84 K14, M1, K4, (19)
Row 85-88 K19 (4 rows)
Row 89 K19, M1 (20) *5 stitches per needle
Row 90-99 K20 (10 rows)
Row 100 K2, M1, K18, (21)
Row 101-104 K21 (4 rows)
Row 105 K8, M1, K13 (22)
Row 106-109 K22 (4 rows)
Row 110 K14, M1, K8 (23)
Row 111-114 K23 (4 rows)
Row 115 K20, M1, K3 (24) *6 stitches per needle
Row 116-215 K24 (100 rows) or to desired length

NECK
Row 216 *K4, K2tog* 4 times
Row 217 K20
Row 218 *K3, K2tog* 4 times
Row 219 K16

HEAD
Row 220 *K1, M1* 6 times, K2, *K1, M1* 6 times, K2 (28)
Row 221-222 K28
Row 223 *K2tog, K8, K2tog, K2* 2 times (24)
Row 224 K24
Row 225 *K2tog, K6, K2tog, K2* 2 times (20)
Row 226 K20
Row 227 *K2tog, K4, K2tog, K2* 2 times (16)
Row 228-229 K16

Stuff snake before continuing
Row 230 *K2tog, K2* 4 times (12)
Row 231-233 K12 (3 times)
Row 234 *K2tog, K2tog, k2* 2 times (8)
Row 235 K8

For the tongue: Cut a piece or yarn approx 12" long. Using a darning needle run one end of the yarn through a purl bump on the inside (purl side) of the snake near the opening. You should end up with the yarn caught in the middle with two ends coming out the opening.

with the first 4 stitches on one needle, and the last 4 stitches on another, finish stuffing the snake, and then kitchner stitch the end closed, keeping the two yarn ends in between the 2nd and 3rd stitches on the needles so they remain centered.

For the center of the tongue, tie the two pieces of yarn together for 3 knots. For the forks of the tongue, take a small crochet hook and make a tight chain of 3 or 4 stitches each side. End off. Using a thin darning needle, pull the yarn at the end of the forked tongue back through the crocheted ends and secure into the snake.

If a crochet hook is not handy, the forks of the tongue can achieved by tying a few knots very closely together on each.

Worsted Weight Snake

MATERIALS
Size 3 US double Point needles
Darning Needle
Size 0 or close crochet hook (optional)
Stitch marker
Stuffing for Snakes*
*I used pinto beans to stuff my snakes. This gives the snakes a bit of weight and helps them curl and slither in a way polystuffing doesn't. I would not recommend pinto beans or similar for children who are young enough for choking hazards to be a concern.

This pattern is designed with the 5 piece double point needles in mind. This keeps the stitches evenly placed for the longer knitting sections. However, a 4 piece double point needle set will work fine, the stitches simply won't divide as evenly over the longest sections of knitting.

Cast on 3 stitches
Row 1 K3 as for an I-cord
Row 2 K1, k1f&b, K1
Row 3 K4
Row 4 K1, K1f&b, K1, K1f&b
Row 5-6 K6

Divide onto 3 needles, with 2 stitches on each needle

Row 7 K1, M1, K5 (7 stitches)
Row 8-9 K7
Row 10 K4, M1, K3 (8)
Row 11-12 K8
Row 13 K7, M1, K1 (9) *at this point you should have 3 stitches on each needle
Row 14-23 K9 (10 rows)
Row 24 K2, M1, K7 (10)
Row 25-27 K10
Row 28 K6, M1, K4 (11)
Row 29-31 K11
Row 32 K10, M1, K1 (12) *at this point you should have 4 stitches on each needle. A 4th needle can be introduced at this time with 3 stitches on each needle if you prefer.
Row 33-47 K12 (15 Rows)
Row 48 K2, M1, K10 (13)
Row 49-52 K13 (4 rows)
Row 53 K6, M1, K7 (14)
Row 54-57 K14 (4 rows)
Row 58 K10, M1, K4 (15)
Row 59-62 K15 (4 rows)
Row 63 K14, M1, K1 (16) If you did not introduce a 4th needle in row 32, you may wish to do so at this time, placing 4 stitches on each needle.
Row 64-188 K16 (125 rows or until desired length)
Row 189 *K2, K2tog* 4x's (12)
Row 190 K12 *K1, M1, K2* 4x's (16)
Row 191 K16

HEAD
Row 192 *K1, M1* 6 times, K2, *K1, M1* 6 times, K2 (28)
Row 193-194 K28
Row 195 *K2tog, K8, K2tog, K2* 2 times (24)
Row 196 K24
Row 197 *K2tog, K6, K2tog, K2* 2 times (20)
Row 198 K20
Row 199 *K2tog, K4, K2tog, K2* 2 times (16)
Row 200-201 K16

Stuff snake before continuing
Row 202 *K2tog, K2* 4 times (12)
Row 203-205 K12 (3 times)
Row 206 *K2tog, K2tog, k2* 2 times (8)
Row 207 K8

For the tongue: Cut a piece or yarn approx 12" long. Using a darning needle run one end of the yarn through a purl bump on the inside (purl side) of the snake near the opening. You should end up with the yarn caught in the middle with two ends coming out the opening.

with the first 4 stitches on one needle, and the last 4 stitches on another, finish stuffing the snake, and then kitchner stitch the end closed, keeping the two yarn ends in between the 2nd and 3rd stitches on the needles so they remain centered.

For the center of the tongue, tie the two pieces of yarn together for 3 knots. For the forks of the tongue, take a small crochet hook and make a tight chain of 3 or 4 stitches each side. End off. Using a thin darning needle, pull the yarn at the end of the forked tongue back through the crocheted ends and secure into the snake.

If a crochet hook is not handy, the forks of the tongue can achieved by tying a few knots very closely together on each.

SCARF:
The scarf on the snakes is simply done in a garter stitch over 6 cast on stitches to desired length. I generally used a US size 3 needle.

All patterns and photos © Bear Toes